Friday, June 11, 2010

Andy Tauer Orange Star review

fayum wine wreath I always thought sangria was a stupid invention. I mean, why would you add citrus to wine? It seemed all wrong. Ditto orange in chocolate, coffee, etc. Why take two intense flavor profiles which have little in common—and what they have in common isn't something you want to enhance, like acidity—and then push them together into some Dr.. Frankenstein creation. Such was my line of thought as I sat out on my back patio, sipping my husband’s homemade sangria, which is nice as far as such things go, when I spritzed on Andy Tauer’s newest creation Orange Star, to review.

 

In a moment of serendipity, it all came together. When I smelled that intense, superfesh, almost Tang-like orange topnote in conjunction with the fabulous Tauer resinous incense, which here smells fabulously bitter, but in a nice way, like a good juicy orange peel, I understood so much more than the fragrance itself. I understood what it means to go out on a limb, to try something intense, problematic, difficult. Something that doesn’t readily make sense to others, but when it does, it’s sheer fabulosity. Just like a good sangria, which not only brings together very problematic elements (tannins, acids, oxidization, citrus flavors, alcohol) in a harmonious composition that is greater than its parts, or a really well made orange chocolate, which says something other than ‘chocolate flavored with synthetic orange’, Tauer brings together truly disparate, though somehow harmonious elements, and creates something really special here. 

 

Orange usually means freshness, cleanness, lightness—just think of all the fresh, light, cologne-oriented traditional edts,450px-Citrus_reticulata_Fruchtansatz and then think of modern iterations of citrus scents, which also emphasize lightness. If it doesn’t mean fresh, it means pomander—a Christmassy or autumnal blend of citrus and spice. Orange star is neither ‘fresh’ nor ‘holiday-oriented,’ and therein lies its genius. It is a dense, heavy orange/incense combination, one that floats heavily around the wearer but doesn’t seem seasonal, and one that says anything but ‘I am fresh and just-washed.’ In fact, it has a salty, almost oceanic tang at the base which is very interesting, but definitely not clean—it smells more ancient than anything. I TOTALLY dig it. One more thumbs-up for Tauer’s latest creation. But I’m sure I’m just preaching to the choir… or am I? Any further opinions on Orange Star, now that the fervor of the launch has died down and we all have had some time for reflection?

Other Bloggers’ reviews of Orange Star (let me know if I’ve forgotten anyone):

My Perfume Life

Perfume Smellin’ Things

Now Smell This

Perfume Shrine

Katie Pulchrik Smells

CREDITS:

Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons: orange image and encaustic portrait of man with red wine and rose-petal wreath; from Er-Rubayat, fourth century CE Santa Monica, Getty Museum. Credits: Barbara McManus, 1989

14 comments:

  1. I think you've just sold me on Orange Star - now I need to get a sample! When I first read about the release I felt very lukewarm about it, but your review makes it sound extremely appealing.

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  2. i'm double crossing my fingers that i'll get to smell it for myself! ;) ever since i started reading your blog i have been searching for scents that i like and find wearable (which, admittedly, are rather few). one of my absolute favorite smells and flavors is citrus (particularly orange blossom, can you recommend a good--and perhaps more widely available--soliflore? serge lutens is kind of inaccessible from my current location). i have always loved the marriage of citrus and "darker" elements when done right; glad to have you with us. ;)

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  3. Michael, so glad to have 'sold' you on Orange Star. I rather like it!

    Jessica, I love orange blossom, and can direct you to a link to a post at NST, which reviews three OB scents and links to her reviews of like ten more. I must say, though, that I love the SL the most!

    You should be telling ME where to find nice orange blossom smells. I bet there's some pretty cool stuff where you are right now!

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  4. Oops, I forgot to post the link! Here it is:

    http://www.nstperfume.com/2005/06/30/three-orange-blossom-perfumes/

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  5. Oh, orange + dark chocolate... :)

    It's always fun to have a door open that had previously seemed, at the least, inhospitable. As for Orange Star itself, I have yet to sample...though I'll note the bump together Tauer does in Rose Chypree is a happy (if not as unusual) pleasure for me.

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  6. Yes, I just keep trying to open more doors in my mind rather than closing them, although it is hard sometimes to get over old prejudices and hangups. This was a nice little surprise!

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  7. Before smelling Orange Sanguine I never thought I'd like an orange fragrance. But my eyes have been opened. Your description of Orange Star makes it sound like it's definitely worth trying. I will look out for it.

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  8. OMG -- Orange AND incense? Possibly a match made in heaven. Thanks for this review!
    Two orange-related tips you may appreciate:
    - Agragria's "Bitter Orange" incense sticks. Bliss. LEarned about them as a kid, when my aunt would take me to I. Magnin to get them.
    - Frederic Malle's "Bigarade Concentrée": Could have a better drydown, but: That bitter orange combined with the sweaty cumin note. Wow. Hot stuff, esp. for summer. Grab some if you can. I splurged on my last Paris visit, that's for sure.
    Have a great weekend,
    Michael

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  9. I wonder if I would dig this too ?? I am curious to put it to the test. As long as I won't smell like a orange popsicle or candy like I'm in. I am really lovin Andy's stuff, my girls are being subjected alot to natural perfumes lately and my lil'est bebe was all "Mama where's your other foofoo's?" I was wearing Une Rose.C. that night and then on her field trip I was wearing Vetiver Dance and when I hugged her lil' friend she said "You smell like my Grandma!" Ahaha I just replied , " Well your Grammy must smell good then." :) I shall soldier on till I find THEE ONE! Whatever that means, there is probably no such thing in a hobby like this <3
    Take care!

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  10. I have the Bigarade Concentrée sitting around in sample form somewhere. I'll have to try it again! The bitter Orange incense sticks sound awesome as well! Thanks for that.

    MPL, Your Orange Sanguine review sounded really nice--I want to try that as well...so many smellies, so little time!

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  11. Tamara! I son't think it is orange candy at all, though I have seen some reviews that say otherwise, so maybe it's one of those ones that everyone reacts to in a different way....

    Your daughters and their friends sound really sweet!

    LOL about the grandma comment! You rock!

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  12. Baby you know how I do! And BTW, Sangria is BOMB woman, but thats the Latina in me talkin'! Give me some of that and I can dance my cares away. ;)

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  13. Great review! I love the way your review begins with Sangria and ends with loving Orange Star. Sort of a personal awakening and a perfume review all rolled in to one. I got Orange Star shortly after it came out and I love it. I don't wear citruses because the whole "fresh" thing always feels a bit raspy to my nose, even if it is light enough to wear in summer. But Orange Star is deeper than that. It's smell feels liquid while other oranges seem like a pale cloud. I've opened my mind a bit about orange fragrances as a result (tried Orange Sanguine and liked it). But OS is literally in a class by itself as citruses go. There is not other citrus or orange blossom I know that's like it.

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  14. Baby, I'm all about the personal awakenings--all revelation, all the time! ;-)

    But seriously, thanks for your kind words--and you are right, OS is truly unique. I get what you mean when you say it's liquid where other citruses are clouds....

    Thanks for your awesome comments!

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